Light switch not working, and the light stays off

A switch that does nothing is often not the switch at all. A burned-out bulb, a tripped breaker or GFCI, a lamp that is off at the lamp, or a dimmer's own service tab can all look the same from the wall. A few questions sort the quick fixes from a worn switch, which is a job for a licensed electrician.

Also searched as: light switch not working, light switch not working breaker not tripped, light switch not working after power outage, light switch stopped working.

Before you start. If the switch is hot, discolored, buzzing, crackling, sparking, smells like burning or gives you a tingle, stop using it, turn its breaker off and call a licensed electrician. Smoke or flames: get out and call 911. Never take the cover plate off a switch.

A hand pressing a wall light switch in a hallway while the ceiling light stays off

Every question and answer on this page, in order

Question 1: Is the switch hot, discolored or scorched, buzzing, crackling, sparking, smelling of burning, or giving you a tingle?

Look, listen and sniff first, without touching. If you notice any of those signs, or the switch has ever given you a tingle, answer Yes and do not touch it again. CPSC says to avoid touching a faceplate that has given you a shock. Answer Yes as well if the cover plate is broken or missing, because CPSC says a missing plate leaves electrical parts exposed. If nothing seems wrong, feel the cover plate lightly with the back of your fingers. Do not hold your hand on it. CPSC says a plate may be warm but should never be hot or painful to touch. For a standard switch that is only warm, see the switch or outlet warm guide.

Yes, one or more of those: Stop: warning signs at the switch
No, none of those: go to question 2

Question 2: What else is out?

Try the other lights in the room, and plug a lamp you know works into the nearby outlets.

Other lights or outlets nearby are dead too: Likely cause: a tripped breaker or GFCI
It stopped right after a power outage, a storm or a tripped breaker: Likely cause: a tripped breaker or GFCI
Only the light or lamp this switch controls: go to question 3

Question 3: What does this switch control, and does a bulb you know works change anything?

Turn the switch off before you change a bulb, and let a hot bulb cool first. On a dimmer with a small service tab on the front, pull the tab out first and push it back in afterward. Lutron and Leviton say that cuts power to the light. If a second dimmer controls the same light, pull its tab out as well. Lutron says to pull it on both. If the switch runs a ceiling fan, the ceiling fan not working guide fits better.

A lamp plugged into a wall outlet: Likely cause: the lamp, not the wall switch
A ceiling or wall light, and a good bulb fixed it: Likely cause: a burned-out or loose bulb
A ceiling or wall light that stays dead with a good bulb, or has no bulb I can change: go to question 4

Question 4: What kind of switch is it?

Pick the first one that applies. A dimmer has a slider, dial or bar that sets brightness. A smart switch also works from an app, a remote or a voice assistant.

A dimmer or a smart switch: Check the dimmer or smart switch's own controls
One of two or more switches that control the same light: Likely cause: a three-way switch or its wiring
A standard on/off switch, the only one for this light: go to question 5

Question 5: At the panel, is any breaker handle in the middle or OFF? Is any GFCI outlet's RESET button popped out?

Open only the hinged panel door and look at every handle. GFCI outlets have TEST and RESET buttons. Check the same room, plus the bathroom, kitchen, garage, basement and outside.

Yes, I found a tripped breaker or a popped GFCI: Likely cause: a tripped breaker or GFCI
No, every breaker is ON and every GFCI is reset: Likely cause: a worn switch or a wiring fault

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